Marseille, Paris and London in one day

Went for the unlimited starter and deserts option on the ferry last night. Worked out ok though the waiter didn't seem very keen. Poor nights sleep in a stuffy cabin with a hard mattress and woken early by large group of ladies talking loudly at 6 am. Didn't risk breakfast on ferry again, however the croissants we bought yesterday were rock hard this morning so ended up having nothing until the train station at Marseille.

Rather difficult leaving the port on a bike because you get channelled toward the motorway but eventually managed to fight our way back to the route we had mapped on the garmin and up to the station. Bought expensive coffee and croissants but found good company with some Irish cousins. One lived in france and the other was visiting from oz.

Packed bikes into bags and dragged luggage to train carriage at end of platform. Took a while to find room to stow away the bags but not too traumatic an experience. Non stop to Paris in 3 hours. Rebuild bike on platform at Gare de Lyon.

Followed Garmin route across Paris to Gare de Nord. Quite an easy journey. Expensive beer opposite the station then checked in to the Eurostar terminal.

Arrived at St Pancreas at 6:30, retrieved bikes from luggage collection point and managed to catch 7:35 back to Tring. Got home at 8:45.

Dinner from M&S. Drink at pub with choir people then home to bed. Zzzzzzzzzzzz

Stunning sunrise over Marseille as the ferry arrives

St Florent to Bastia

Odd choice of cereal at the hotel breakfast. Bran flakes or Coco Pops. Nothing fresh either but better than the ferry breakfast. Checked out around 10:30 and headed into St Florent to buy water and fruit and grab a quick coffee. 

Had decided to lunch in Oletta and then do the Col de Teghime in the afternoon,  but it was so hot on the way up the hill into Oletta that we wondered if it would be better to go over the lower Col de S Stefano. 

In Oletta we had to climb a fair bit to find a restaurant for lunch, but had great views into the valley below. Both had ravioli with pesto sauce and a bottle of Orezza fizzy water. Met a couple on a tandem on their first day, just off the ferry at Bastia. 

Decided to stick with plan  A and headed up to the Col de Teghime. Quite a climb though made easier by a cloud that obscured the sun for much of the time. A few crazy drivers made us think it was something of a short cut for the locals. 

Good views at the top, though Bastia not much to look at from that height. Descent into Bastia a bit scruffy with poor road surface but Bastia itself very attractive. Bought cakes and found square next to get port where we have just watched a remembrance day service, though do not know what significance the date has. Must find out. 

Ferry to Marseille goes on a couple of hours. 

Gorge de l'Asco to St Florent

We didn't expect much of today, since it was really all about getting to
the hotel in St Florent in order to pick up the bike bags for tomorrow,
but it actually turned into a great days cycling through the most
amazing scenery.

The day started with a giant helping of porridge (we are so addicted
that we carry enough porridge for every day) and we were off by around
10. We headed back to the N197, one of the major roads in Corsica and
marked in red on the map. We could have taken this all the way to
Monetta to minimise ascent, but it's very busy with no hard shoulder, so
we turned off on the N2197 after 4km and a quick coffee stop. This road
was great - it snaked around following the railway line at a gradient of
2 to 3% through wild west style scenery, full of cows in and around the
road. After 12 km we took a minor road to Novella, still following the
railway line.

The Novella road was very narrow and full of pot holes, but it really
felt like we were off the beaten track and exploring where most tourists
don't go. The road rises to the Bocca a Croce before twisting down into
Novella. We nearly stopped at the bar in the village but decided it was
still early and they didn't appear to do much food.

The road from Novella to Monetta is un-marked - you have to take the
left hand fork where the communal cemetery is sign posted and the D12
goes right and up the hill back to main road. This brings you out on the
N197 at Monetta opposite an Auberge that does fantastic food in a
beautiful court yard. We both had the menu-de-jour, 2 courses but no
wine!!

After lunch it was up-hill to the Bocca di Vezzu - 350m of steady 5 to
6%. Great views all the way and roasting hot. Quick stop at the top to
admire he view and then follow the road as it stays roughly at the same
height for the next 10km, snaking around the contours of the mountains,
dipping down slightly to cross over bridges. Quite a feat of
engineering.

Eventually dropped down into St Florent, kind of pretty tourist town,
bought some beer and water and headed for the hotel. Bike bags were
waiting so all good. Great meal out at a fish place where they catch
their own. Dining room behind the fish mongers.

Tomorrow is ferry back to Marseille in the evening.

Sally and friends in the gorge de l'asco

https://db.tt/6xh2QnQN

Corte to Gorge de l'Asco

Last night we found that the Auberge opposite the hotel was fully booked and so had to walk into town. Close encounter with a cow on the way. Ate at Le Bips on the high street. Enormous portions a bit alarming but otherwise OK. Bit of a sitcom feel to the place with a dumb waiter that didn't function very well and an elderly mother drinking the bar tenders mistakes.

Took advantage of the hotel buffet breakfast and ate our fill this morning. Stocked up with supplies for lunch and dinner in Corte and set off on the old main road south, avoiding the tunnel on the improved road. Eventually had to join the main road and made fast progress with slight downhill gradient to Ponte Lechia. Bought expensive water at petrol station, everything else closed so continued to the turning for the Gorge de l'Asco and found camp site. Place deserted but made ourselves at home and ate our lunch of calzone pizza.

Lazed around until owner arrived, paid for one night and got WiFi key then set off up the gorge. Sally thought I should go all the way to the ski station while she waited at a bar but that seemed a bit optimistic given the time left before dark. Instead I cycled down from Asco to the Pont Genois and back up again. This gorge was a lot quieter than the Restonicer and much more to see. Enjoyed beer at Asco before descending back to campsite. Another scorching day. I think we have been quite lucky.

Campsite dog and troupe of cats paid visits to see if we had any spare food going.

Gorge de la Restonica - a day off of sorts

The route for today was pretty simple, no need for a Garmin or even a
map. Out of the hotel, turn left and keep going up hill for 13km until
the road runs out, then turn around and come back down. With no need to
bring along all our kit we should have travelled pretty light, however a
picnic lunch and warm clothing for the descent pretty much filled a
pannier.

The Gorge de la Restonica is one of the most visited gorges in Corsica,
running directly SW out of Corte for 15km and rising 900m in the
process. It's mostly 5 to 7% but has some sections of 14%, one of which
lasts for maybe 1km. The road initially runs to the right of the river
but then switches to the left. Some sections have no barriers and shear
drops, so on the way up the second half of the climb can feel
uncomfortable when cars are squeezing by and coming down it's the second
half that puts you next to the big drops. Sally really didn't like the
vertiginous stuff and nearly bailed out. Much of the climb is through
the forest with only occasional glimpses of the spectacular views,
however the reward on reaching the top is well worth it. A car park
marks the end of the climb shortly after crossing a wooden bridge above
some beautiful mountain stream pools. We went up to the car park for a
couple of photographs and then found a spot by the river for lunch. I
stuck my legs in the water and can confirm that it was freezing.

After an hour lazing around we headed back down, stopping to take photos
along the way. It was far warmer than I expected - probably no need to
have taken all that warm stuff with me.

It's a highly recommended trip but probably a nightmare in high season.

Calacuccia to Corte

The day began with a giant coffee from the boulangerie opposite the
campsite. We also bought a couple of savoury snacks for lunch that are
some kind of vegetable wrap - very light and tasty. The first 15km were
downhill through a beautiful gorge with the odd hydro electric plant
along the way. We then turned right and climbed up to the Col d'Ominanda
where we ate our lunch. There were 2 memorials near the summit - one to
a fireman who died fighting a forest fire in 1988 and the other to 2
rally drivers who died in the Tour of Corsica in 1986. There were also a
few cows near the summit that caused problems for the drivers speeding
over the brow of the hill.

We then descended into Corte and decided to try and find a hotel for the
night. The town was very congested due to a car rally, which was just
about to depart when we arrived (bit ironic give the memorial we had
just seen). I went in search of the tourist information office and of
course found it was shut (how french) and so we cycled down to the Gorge
de Restonica to try and found a hotel. Didn't like the look of the
Auberge so opted for the very expensive but very nice hotel
opposite.Planning to stay for 2 nights so we can explore the gorge
without panniers.

Pig pic of the day

So many piglets!

Col de Vergio

All wrapped up for the descent!

Evisa to Calacuccia

Last night was probably the best view we have ever had from a campsite
pitch. Sadly the showers didn't quite match up and were stone cold. When
the sun goes down at 1000m it certainly gets cold so we didn't sit
around much after dinner. We had been warned that it would get really
cold during the night but it seemed ok to us.

In the morning I cycled down into to Evisa to get provisions and met a
South African father and daughter who had just come down from the Col de
Vergio, which was where we were heading. It was past 11 when we got
going and the sun was beating down, however the road up to the Col de
Vergio is through a forest and the shade kept the worst of the heat off
us. It's 10km from Evisa to the summit at 1477m and then 20km down
without peddling. We stopped to picnic at the summit and met a man from
Munich doing a solo bike tour of the island. On the way down into
Calacuccia we came upon a group of piglets by the side of the road. They
were very friendly and quite happy to have their photos taken.

We are currently having a drink in the hotel next to the camp site and
tonight will be eating out since it is likely to be cold again.

Camping in the mountains

No wifi tonight so no pictures. Camp site at vico was a bit run down so we pressed on to Evisa over the Col de Seri so 1100m of climb. Wild boar,  goats and cows with calves on the road. Water from springs in each village. Quite the most stunning scenery I have seen. Tonight's campsite is at 1000m and has views of the mountains. They've even laid on a sunset. Pictures when we next get wifi. 

Slow start

We are all packed and ready to go, Andy is just taking advantage of the free wifi to catch up on some work before we set off    A fairly short ride planned today- about 10 miles I think, but straight up a mountain. We have the most expensive coffee of the tour so far I think- €8.20 for two cafe au laits!!

Bike lane of the tour

Crap bike lane in Marseille.

Sally on the super side road

Ferry to Ajaccio and cycle to Sagone

Cabin on the ferry was good but food was dire. We chose to eat in the
restaurant and opted for buffet starter plus main course. The starter
was fine but the main courses were almost inedible. My tip would be to
go for the unlimited starters and deserts and miss out the main course.

Reasonable nights sleep followed by foul coffee in the ferry self
service cafe. Discovered that I had lost my cycle shorts and so had to
visit cycle store in Ajaccio before leaving. Took quite a while since
google maps was quite inaccurate and the traffic was awful. Very glad to
leave Ajaccio although the traffic on the D81 was heavier than we liked.
Met a couple with a small boy in a chariot on a cycle tour at the top of
the main climb. They were doing a 3 1/2 week tour of the island - half a
day cycling, half a day at the beach. They advised us to use a side road
down to Sagone to avoid the traffic. Great advice because it was so
quiet and ran along the coast. Had a beach picnic along the way. Became
very hot around lunch time (32 celcius). Eventually rejoined the coast
line tat and decided to camp at Sagone so we can press inland and see
some of the interior.

Strange sight of the day was a lycra clad man on a penny farthing
hammering along the D81. His girl friend followed on a normal bike. They
both waved!

So in summary, Marseille yuk, ferry food yuk, Ajaccio traffic yuk but
side road, beach and weather fantastic!

Also, quite a nice camp site.

Lunch of the holiday so far

On route to Marseille we stopped at a road side restaurant and had this
amazing meal. Yummmmmmm!

Scorchio

It's hot in Corsica. 32.2 Celsius. Roads still busier than we like. Might head for hills today. 

St Criox to Marseille

Fairly cold start to the day. Used the wifi to catch up with some work and set off about 11. Very pretty coast somewhat spoilt by the amount of development. Very warm sun but a cold wind from the north, sometimes strong enough to make it hard when going down hill. Great lunch stop of enormous plates of anti pasta then down hill to Marseille. Tried to find ferry into the old port bit somehow missed it. Then had horrible busy roads which we had no option but to escape followed by a tour of the slightly rougher side of town. Families living in cars by the side of the road. A disturbing scene in a country like France -  do they accept this kind of thing now? 

Killed some time in the old port before heading for ferry. Just got to our cabin. Next stop Ajaccio. 

We have 2 plug sockets in the cabin. How exciting is that? All that recharging of garmins and phones. 

Martigues

Dinner!

Bagging a Col

Fwd: St Croix near Martigues

The road from Arles to Martigues was more interesting than the the road
to Arles - there were some hills through heath land and some nice roads
lines with plane trees. Martigues itself (Venice of France apparently)
was quite pretty with a harbour and views over the Etang de Berre. We
bagged our first Col of the trip at a massive 122m high!! Arrived at our
chosen camp site to find the reception closed, tried another but it
didn't accept tents and so moved on to a third which was fine. Just
missed the local supermarket but fortunately had enough food for a
decent meal of steak, onions, mushrooms, green olives and cashew nuts on
rice. Had quite a lot of work to do in the evening and got to bed fairly
late.

Slightly cool feel this morning so hoping Corsica will be a bit warmer.
Just got 20 miles to do today followed by an overnight ferry to Ajaccio.

Arles

Fairly dull 35k to Arles along a flat busy road. At least it had a cycle track by the side for much of the way. Found Roman Amphitheatre after some searching and maybe the same PMU cafe that we used last time we were here. Got another 70k to do so not much time for tourism. 

Camping was ok last night. Smoked salmon with onions,  courgette,  pasta and creme fraiche. 

We must have slept for 10 hours. 

Nimes to St Maries-de-la-Mer

Roman Arena in Nimes was very impressive though not sure how much is original. Stopped at Intermarche on way out of town for supplies. By the time we were on our way it was getting pretty hot. Landscape seemed to be initially devoid of agriculture, just scrubby looking fields, not like in Provence where they are full of veg. Later on we saw countless vineyards before the waterways and marshy stuff took over. Had couple of brief stops for food, once in an olive grove and later by a canal. Really enjoying the new chairs, luxury camping! 

Saw lots of white horses, quite a few eels and a man riding a small child's bike with a small child balanced on his shoulders. Will try and post photo when we next have wifi. 

Did 62km in total today. Campsite is ok but can't visit beach due to very high winds. Just about to cook dinner. 

Off the bus

Can still feel the motion of the bus but feel a lot better after coffee and croissant near the station in Nimes. After a cloudy start the sun is coming out. Off to see the roman arena then to the seaside. 

Morning

Bus has just reached Orange. We are the last two aboard with about an hour to Nimes. Even managed a reasonable amount of sleep. 

North of Paris

At the services making use of the free wifi. Dinner on coach was quite good. Really enjoying listening to Jarvis Cocker's wireless nights downloaded as podcasts. Fantastic soundscape. Sally watched Les Mis long distance from the back of the coach. It will probably be a long night but I have some single malt to help if needs be. 

Bike express

Rainy start to the trip with a wet ride to Cheddington station and then a ride around the bike lanes of Milton Keynes to Newport Pagnell. One puncture along the way so a quick stop in in NP to get an inner tube and a coffee. Riding into the motorway services is a bit weird but the bike express system seems to work quite well and now we are on our way to Dover. Bikes look very secure in the trailer.

Ready, steady....

We are all packed for an early departure on Saturday. In a change from our usual travel, we will be catching a train up to Milton Keynes, cycling over to Newport Pagnell service station (where all good adventures start), and catching this:

On this bus we will be transported all the way to Nimes. The bikes will travel in great comfort. Less so for us, all night on the coach- set to arrive at about 9:30 the next morning.