Marseille, Paris and London in one day

Went for the unlimited starter and deserts option on the ferry last night. Worked out ok though the waiter didn't seem very keen. Poor nights sleep in a stuffy cabin with a hard mattress and woken early by large group of ladies talking loudly at 6 am. Didn't risk breakfast on ferry again, however the croissants we bought yesterday were rock hard this morning so ended up having nothing until the train station at Marseille.

Rather difficult leaving the port on a bike because you get channelled toward the motorway but eventually managed to fight our way back to the route we had mapped on the garmin and up to the station. Bought expensive coffee and croissants but found good company with some Irish cousins. One lived in france and the other was visiting from oz.

Packed bikes into bags and dragged luggage to train carriage at end of platform. Took a while to find room to stow away the bags but not too traumatic an experience. Non stop to Paris in 3 hours. Rebuild bike on platform at Gare de Lyon.

Followed Garmin route across Paris to Gare de Nord. Quite an easy journey. Expensive beer opposite the station then checked in to the Eurostar terminal.

Arrived at St Pancreas at 6:30, retrieved bikes from luggage collection point and managed to catch 7:35 back to Tring. Got home at 8:45.

Dinner from M&S. Drink at pub with choir people then home to bed. Zzzzzzzzzzzz

Stunning sunrise over Marseille as the ferry arrives

St Florent to Bastia

Odd choice of cereal at the hotel breakfast. Bran flakes or Coco Pops. Nothing fresh either but better than the ferry breakfast. Checked out around 10:30 and headed into St Florent to buy water and fruit and grab a quick coffee. 

Had decided to lunch in Oletta and then do the Col de Teghime in the afternoon,  but it was so hot on the way up the hill into Oletta that we wondered if it would be better to go over the lower Col de S Stefano. 

In Oletta we had to climb a fair bit to find a restaurant for lunch, but had great views into the valley below. Both had ravioli with pesto sauce and a bottle of Orezza fizzy water. Met a couple on a tandem on their first day, just off the ferry at Bastia. 

Decided to stick with plan  A and headed up to the Col de Teghime. Quite a climb though made easier by a cloud that obscured the sun for much of the time. A few crazy drivers made us think it was something of a short cut for the locals. 

Good views at the top, though Bastia not much to look at from that height. Descent into Bastia a bit scruffy with poor road surface but Bastia itself very attractive. Bought cakes and found square next to get port where we have just watched a remembrance day service, though do not know what significance the date has. Must find out. 

Ferry to Marseille goes on a couple of hours. 

Gorge de l'Asco to St Florent

We didn't expect much of today, since it was really all about getting to
the hotel in St Florent in order to pick up the bike bags for tomorrow,
but it actually turned into a great days cycling through the most
amazing scenery.

The day started with a giant helping of porridge (we are so addicted
that we carry enough porridge for every day) and we were off by around
10. We headed back to the N197, one of the major roads in Corsica and
marked in red on the map. We could have taken this all the way to
Monetta to minimise ascent, but it's very busy with no hard shoulder, so
we turned off on the N2197 after 4km and a quick coffee stop. This road
was great - it snaked around following the railway line at a gradient of
2 to 3% through wild west style scenery, full of cows in and around the
road. After 12 km we took a minor road to Novella, still following the
railway line.

The Novella road was very narrow and full of pot holes, but it really
felt like we were off the beaten track and exploring where most tourists
don't go. The road rises to the Bocca a Croce before twisting down into
Novella. We nearly stopped at the bar in the village but decided it was
still early and they didn't appear to do much food.

The road from Novella to Monetta is un-marked - you have to take the
left hand fork where the communal cemetery is sign posted and the D12
goes right and up the hill back to main road. This brings you out on the
N197 at Monetta opposite an Auberge that does fantastic food in a
beautiful court yard. We both had the menu-de-jour, 2 courses but no
wine!!

After lunch it was up-hill to the Bocca di Vezzu - 350m of steady 5 to
6%. Great views all the way and roasting hot. Quick stop at the top to
admire he view and then follow the road as it stays roughly at the same
height for the next 10km, snaking around the contours of the mountains,
dipping down slightly to cross over bridges. Quite a feat of
engineering.

Eventually dropped down into St Florent, kind of pretty tourist town,
bought some beer and water and headed for the hotel. Bike bags were
waiting so all good. Great meal out at a fish place where they catch
their own. Dining room behind the fish mongers.

Tomorrow is ferry back to Marseille in the evening.

Sally and friends in the gorge de l'asco

https://db.tt/6xh2QnQN

Corte to Gorge de l'Asco

Last night we found that the Auberge opposite the hotel was fully booked and so had to walk into town. Close encounter with a cow on the way. Ate at Le Bips on the high street. Enormous portions a bit alarming but otherwise OK. Bit of a sitcom feel to the place with a dumb waiter that didn't function very well and an elderly mother drinking the bar tenders mistakes.

Took advantage of the hotel buffet breakfast and ate our fill this morning. Stocked up with supplies for lunch and dinner in Corte and set off on the old main road south, avoiding the tunnel on the improved road. Eventually had to join the main road and made fast progress with slight downhill gradient to Ponte Lechia. Bought expensive water at petrol station, everything else closed so continued to the turning for the Gorge de l'Asco and found camp site. Place deserted but made ourselves at home and ate our lunch of calzone pizza.

Lazed around until owner arrived, paid for one night and got WiFi key then set off up the gorge. Sally thought I should go all the way to the ski station while she waited at a bar but that seemed a bit optimistic given the time left before dark. Instead I cycled down from Asco to the Pont Genois and back up again. This gorge was a lot quieter than the Restonicer and much more to see. Enjoyed beer at Asco before descending back to campsite. Another scorching day. I think we have been quite lucky.

Campsite dog and troupe of cats paid visits to see if we had any spare food going.

Gorge de la Restonica - a day off of sorts

The route for today was pretty simple, no need for a Garmin or even a
map. Out of the hotel, turn left and keep going up hill for 13km until
the road runs out, then turn around and come back down. With no need to
bring along all our kit we should have travelled pretty light, however a
picnic lunch and warm clothing for the descent pretty much filled a
pannier.

The Gorge de la Restonica is one of the most visited gorges in Corsica,
running directly SW out of Corte for 15km and rising 900m in the
process. It's mostly 5 to 7% but has some sections of 14%, one of which
lasts for maybe 1km. The road initially runs to the right of the river
but then switches to the left. Some sections have no barriers and shear
drops, so on the way up the second half of the climb can feel
uncomfortable when cars are squeezing by and coming down it's the second
half that puts you next to the big drops. Sally really didn't like the
vertiginous stuff and nearly bailed out. Much of the climb is through
the forest with only occasional glimpses of the spectacular views,
however the reward on reaching the top is well worth it. A car park
marks the end of the climb shortly after crossing a wooden bridge above
some beautiful mountain stream pools. We went up to the car park for a
couple of photographs and then found a spot by the river for lunch. I
stuck my legs in the water and can confirm that it was freezing.

After an hour lazing around we headed back down, stopping to take photos
along the way. It was far warmer than I expected - probably no need to
have taken all that warm stuff with me.

It's a highly recommended trip but probably a nightmare in high season.

Calacuccia to Corte

The day began with a giant coffee from the boulangerie opposite the
campsite. We also bought a couple of savoury snacks for lunch that are
some kind of vegetable wrap - very light and tasty. The first 15km were
downhill through a beautiful gorge with the odd hydro electric plant
along the way. We then turned right and climbed up to the Col d'Ominanda
where we ate our lunch. There were 2 memorials near the summit - one to
a fireman who died fighting a forest fire in 1988 and the other to 2
rally drivers who died in the Tour of Corsica in 1986. There were also a
few cows near the summit that caused problems for the drivers speeding
over the brow of the hill.

We then descended into Corte and decided to try and find a hotel for the
night. The town was very congested due to a car rally, which was just
about to depart when we arrived (bit ironic give the memorial we had
just seen). I went in search of the tourist information office and of
course found it was shut (how french) and so we cycled down to the Gorge
de Restonica to try and found a hotel. Didn't like the look of the
Auberge so opted for the very expensive but very nice hotel
opposite.Planning to stay for 2 nights so we can explore the gorge
without panniers.